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Review: G51JX-A1 Review

 Posted - 3/25/2010 3:08:00 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

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Hi Pete,
I've already found & contacted that person on Ebay before you sent me this message but there are several  reasons I wouldn't go for it:
* Australia ?? Than that person wants $40 + $20 postal costs - a bit expensive don't you think?
* Is there any guarantee I'm gonna get it within 1 month??-don't think so ( if you remember I've purchaced my unit from US & it took 2 weeks before I got it).
I've found this
and with postal costs it comes to 42Euros =£35,well it's more or less acceptable.But it's somewhere in Slovenia?? Can't trust them.
US/CANADA price $ 8.00 - cheapest and directly from ASUS + I trust you!!!
So Peter in case if you can help me with getting that part and 2Gb ASU 1333.... RAM - I would appriciate you very much man.I'm not in the rush getting it but at list I now I can get it from someone I can trust + ASUS original staff.
Would you please let me know if you can do it for me & how much in total would it be please.Thank you in advance man

 Posted - 3/25/2010 3:20:30 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

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Did you try 197 driver?
I've already downloaded them (driver + INF file) but how can I install them? (sorry being a noob ....)
Thank you man

 Posted - 3/25/2010 6:09:14 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

30 Contributions

Hi Peter,
It really made me laugh,so simple to install that driver -just replaced original INF file with the other one -job is done . Really feel shame.
Anyway can't see any difference at the moment but will let you know if something wrong with this beta driver.

 Posted - 3/25/2010 9:19:59 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

30 Contributions

Hi Peter,
Tested 197 beta driver - defenately not good :
* during 2 hours gaming DIRT 2 - frames droped from 60fps to 44fps
* Temp around 81C , while 196 driver - 77C
* twice game froze (never had that before
So I reverted to to 196  driver -theone you modified
Thank you Peter will stay with your version until ASUS relese GTS 360m's proper driver.

 Posted - 3/25/2010 10:18:13 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

Site Administrator
2020 Contributions

Hey maverick,

Happy to hear the 196 driver I posted is working well for you - it's too bad that 197 isn't any better - still waiting for nVidia to add official support for the 300M series in the mainline builds on their website. One of their staff members last month posted that it would be available "in early to mid March" and I thought that was far away. Now I think we can all agree it's past - so who knows when. I have to say, I don't think ATi was even close to this tardy on releasing new drivers for a product before, while or after I worked there (which was 2006-2007). Thanks for your report, I won't waste time testing it myself in that case - thanks.

About the ASU RAM, check my last message. I'll check into the ASUS parts site though - but note that shipping is expensive here as well. Today I shipped back a set of defective small USB-AC power adapters which were only a bit bigger than standard letter mail. With tracking it came to $15 Canadian (14.50 USD) and that was just to Florida, not at all overseas. I don't know if the cover in an envelope could count as a letter. The combined shipping to me and then to you - I don't know how much it might cost and it could take over a month to get it (it could take 2-3 weeks before I get it and then I'd have to repack it and send it over seas to you).

Note that the Cover has to be modified - you have to drill a hole (one or more) in it. By default the grill is fake and does not allow any air through it.

If you use eBay with PayPal and the unit is not received in the time they guarantee (and if they don't guarantee a time then don't order) or if its damaged, or not what you were buying or whatever - then you can petition PayPal to get your money back. You can confirm the policies where you are and make sure you're comfortable with it - but from what I've read that's what you can try if something does go wrong. I've never had a problem with eBay - actually the worst rip off I had was some headphones I bought from a UK seller that he advertised as genuine Sennhesiers but were actually cheap Chinese rip-offs.

Let me know what you think, I can do what you want about getting it and shipping it to you but want to make sure we look into all the other options first.


 Posted - 3/26/2010 3:32:48 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

4 Contributions

Hi peter,
I got my laptop yesterday,its looks swesum bt I have some issues.

how to decrease resolution without decreasing the view area.At native resolution its really hard to read any thing.


 Posted - 3/26/2010 4:19:28 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

30 Contributions

Hi Peter,
Ok, I've desided to get it off ASUS.eu will be quicker and probably will cost me the same amount of money. Thank you very much for your offer - very kind of you man,to me you're 100% trusted!!!!!!!
Thanks for advise about this fake plastic cover - didn't realised holes needs to be drilled (but that's not a problem).
I'll get Kingston 2gb RAM off UK Kingston ,the one I mentioned earlier - same RAM .
Thanks man

 Posted - 3/26/2010 11:30:41 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

5 Contributions

I got a weird windows benchmark with my RAM. I only got 5.9. I got G51jx, but not the A1. I got 4 Gb RAM. And my friend told me that my HD benchmark was low too.
I'm afraid HD benchmark is low because caused by BSOD, is that right ?

I bought it a lot more expensive, about IDR 16.8 million, maybe about 1700$, because I got warranty from distributor for 1 year. My hometown doesn't have a ASUS center yet.

Here's my RAM detail

*Edit by PJPeter: Fixed links and thumbnails

Last Edited By - PJPeter on 3/26/2010 1:13:09 PM

 Posted - 3/26/2010 11:36:42 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

5 Contributions

Oh yes, about the throttling problem, I still don't get it. Throttling problem means that I can't get my CPU fill potential, is that right?

But If I remove the throttling, I need more power and it could need more than 120 Watt. That's a dangerous decision to make.

 Posted - 3/26/2010 1:38:10 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

Site Administrator
2020 Contributions

Hey technoguy,

The two options I know of are that you can increase the dpi on the screen to make the text bigger or make the resolution lower if you find it too small. It's just right for me when navigating windows, but I know I sometimes come across web pages that people programmed badly which have text that is way, way too small.

If you increase the dpi then the text takes up more space on the screen and therefore decreases the viewing area slightly. If you decrease the resolution, depending on how much, then it makes everything bigger which means the screen display should take up just as many inches physically, but whatever is being displayed takes up more space per inch (essentially the pixels are larger).

Does that answer your question? If when you change the resolution you are getting black space around the edges of the new resolution and the pixels are still as big as they were, then that would indicate that Scaling is turned off - you can check and change those settings by going to the nVidia Control Panel on the "Adjust desktop size and position" tab.

Hey maverick,

I'm glad we worked it out, and thanks for your trust . And I agree, the RAM looks the same just not OEM branded - Please do post and let us know how it all turns out . I'm really tempted now to get a spare assembly cover myself and do the mod as well - be sure to refer to that link I gave you before to see pics and discussion on exactly where and how they drilled the hole - from what I've read it's a big improvement if there's a source of fresh air under the new artificial intake vent the hole creates - one guy reported 10*C+ decrease right away .

Hey vanez,

Your HDD score at 5.9 matches mine exactly. Your 5.8 RAM score might just be because you have 1 less module than I. We have exactly the same stats line for line in those CPU-Z Ram screenshots - it's only the amount of RAM and Serial # that does not match. The speed on the RAM is the same - it's probably just that Windows System Assessment decided to give me a higher score because I had more of it - that's my guess from these benchmarks and others I've seen. You can see my benchmarks on page #1 of this thread.

As mentioned later in the thread though, an SSD gets much better scores, boots faster and gives you a definite speed boost. You might want to look into that if you think your HDD score is too low - the only thing about SSDs today is that they have much lower capacities than HDDs and are much more expensive. For the drive you have though, 5.9 is the expected score.

Yes throttling means the CPU can use more power - most of the time it won't take the PSU past it's default wattage levels and it's only when the system is very stressed (both CPU and GPU) that it will go past the safeties. It is indeed sometimes dangerous - but there is a safety margin built into the system that is larger than it needs to be in most cases, so you could see some improvement even without going past the PSU limit - however Uncle Webb has still not released an updated version of the throttle fix app that would take into account the Temperatures of GPU and CPU to help prevent overstretch... I will send him a message and ask what happened there. With the G51Jx though we can do this more safely than the G51J which needs more power and has thus been known to make the 120W adapter shut down - I haven't had that happen yet even when having continuous maximum power stress with normal usage (ie. not with 10 high drain USB devices plugged in) even after 15 minutes - on the G51J it would happen within 3-5.

I'll check with UW and see if there's an update on that app - if you have a Power Meter ('Kill a Watt Meter') then you can track your power drain from the wall and shut down if you notice it going too high (past 140W constantly) - but it's all up to you, whether you want to risk it or not. Depending on what you do you may not see much of a boost - or it may make some games/apps go from laggy to smooth (as some users have reported). So it's all up to you.

Hope that answers everyone ,


 Posted - 3/26/2010 11:13:45 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

5 Contributions

Ow, thx for the answers.
Right now I use my notebook without battery and just only use an adapter. I use battery when I need it. Because many says that the battery will be more durable if you don't use it for hours. So I use only an adapter.

If my throttling consume more than 120W, and I only use adapter, my notebook will shutdown automatic right ?

 Posted - 3/27/2010 7:03:33 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

Site Administrator
2020 Contributions

Hey vanez,

Yes it's true that if you have the battery inside the computer may use a small amount of energy to trickle charge it to keep it charged (for some notebooks this only kicks in when the battery is lower than 95% capacity and ceases at full charge) - and when the battery is actively being charged because it was used or the the laptop was unplugged for a lengthy amount of time and the battery discharged significantly - then the amount of energy charged will be significant and can certainly contribute to the laptop as a whole needing more energy.

I read a review that stated that the predecessor model (G51J) was not very environmentally friendly at all since it took a lot of power to charge the battery fully and took more than 50% longer to fully charge the battery than the system could run on that same battery charge. It's very true that this laptop is a beast when it comes to power consumption.

One trick I found was this, it allows your G51JX to lock into the lowest powered GPU mode (Maximum PowerMizer Power Savings) when using the system on battery. This stops the system from spiking up the GPU clocks to maximum whenever you move the mouse cursor slightly (which the system interprets as a potential first step to heavy usage, when it rarely is). I confirmed if you use Windows Media Player and you need a higher clock speed on the GPU to play a video file without stuttering, then it will still bump up the clocks to 2D Desktop levels (405/324/810) from the minimum it keeps otherwise (135/135/270):

I just found out how to force powermizer into a specific power saving mode.

I wanted powermizer to be ON with AC and throttle from in a normal was, so my card will chill when I'm not playing games, and I wanted powermized in lowest possible power mode while on battery, so here's what I did:


This involves editing the registry:
1. In registry navigate to HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\***
2. instead of *** in the path find the branch that has a lot of keys in it.
3. If you have powermizer enabled, you should find the famous 4 powermizer registry keys:
PerfLevelSrc - I set this to 2233 in hex, adaptive freq. on AC and preset freq. on batt.
PowerMizerEnable - I set this to 1 in hex
PowerMizerLevel - I set this to 3 in hex, always low power on battery
PowerMizerLevelAC - Iset this to 1 in hex, adaptive freq. on AC

4. Reboot

If you want lowest power mode on battery and highest power mode on AC, then change the "PerfLevelSrc" above to 2222 in hex. Other settings should be the same.

Now, you might have heard about PowermizerSwitch program posted in this forum and you might wonder if it does the same thing. PowermizerSwitch does not let you force video card to lowest power mode on battery. Furthermore, if you will run PowermizerSwitch then:

PerfLevelSrc - will be set to either 3333, or 2222, or 3322 depending on preferences
PowerMizerEnable - will be set to 0
PowerMizerLevel - will be set to 0
PowermizerLevel - will be set to 0

Finally, if you don't have Powermizer enabled at all (no keys in registry), then follow the guide for PowermizerSwitch program to enable it and then change other keys as you like.
Source: Link

Note that when I first searched the registry I had no such keys either - but since adding them via PowerMizer this trick has worked quite well for me.

Back to the battery itself though - I primarily use my battery as a final level UPS to give my laptop time to at least properly shut down during a power outage rather than instantly going off whenever the power utility lets things slide for a moment or an hour. If I wanted longtime battery running then this is not the laptop for me - for that I have my N10J Netbook/Mini Notebook - but I do hear what you mean. Some people say there is undo stress on the battery if you leave it in the system all the time because of the heat. That may be true, but it hasn't affected me too greatly and I did an investigation and found that in this model the battery does not seem to get too hot as there is some distance (air and plastic) between it and the heatsink of the CPU/GPU (the primary heatsources) and it is outside the internal thermal envelope of the laptop - it stays pretty cool to the touch even if you remove it right after (or even during) a 3DMark run for example.  (Now that I have my new $29 IR Thermometer I may even do a more scientific version of this test...) As an experiment I will grab the #s from CPUID Hardware Monitor right this moment and compare them with the levels in a few months and see if there is any great difference. (.:. Current Capacity: 45221 mWh w/12.42V Voltage as of 3/27/2010). Note that I could wear down the battery through use and letting it discharge completely (murder on some Lithium Ion Cells).

Ok and about the throttling and 120W - The PSU stayed on during a constant 142W wall draw for me during my FurMark/Prime95 test a few pages ago, and it survived spikes up to 165W - so it will not shut down right away if you go over 120W (even if you take into account the 87%+ PSU efficiency level). I don't think I have damaged my notebook or PSU at this point because of heat or power levels - but I did get a 3 year warranty just incase and I ran most of these tests during the 30 day new system replacement period just incase. I'm talking to UncleWebb to get a version of ThrottleStop which can prevent the combined temperatures of the GPU/CPU Cores from going too high (along with individual checks as well) to help mitigate the chances of damage - but note that even by turning on your system (or not) you are risking damaging something - it can even be destroyed just by being left idle in a humid environment for too long or through condensation resulting from an open air direct sub-zero to room temperature transfer. So if you are really worried then don't worry and just keep using your system as the manufacturer tested it. If you find things are laggy sometimes and want to take a bit more risk and push the limits - then I, speaking personally, would certainly like to give it a try .

Note that I participated in the throttling investigation heavily because I wanted to make sure that if a fix was needed (such as new power powerful PSUs or a BIOS adjustment) then it could be accomplished right away when ASUS was more likely to support it's new model. Now that we have a fix (though no one aside from me seems to have talked to ASUS about needing new PSUs) it may be that in a few weeks, months or years there could be an app or game* that needs that extra boost to run well on this system. Now we have the knowledge that if and when that time comes to pass we can get the most out of our investments.

*There are some games already that can be helped by this boost, but only if you push the limits like putting a huge # of CPU AI opponents and all maximum graphics settings for example.

Whoa, long post again - but hope I covered everything you asked. I probably covered a lot more as well, but hopefully some of it is useful and it makes sense - and if not, please do reply ,


 Posted - 3/29/2010 2:25:07 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

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LINK: http://www.nvidia.com/object/notebook_winvista_win7_197.16_whql.html

Havent tried them yet. But i will post tonight with results!

 Posted - 3/29/2010 2:31:04 PM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

19 Contributions


This driver supports the following NVIDIA GPUs (please refer to the Products Supported tab for exceptions):

    * ION notebook GPUs.
    * GeForce 8M, 9M, 100M, 200M, and 300M-series notebook GPUs.
    * Quadro NVS-series notebook GPUs (only those that support DirectX 10 or higher).
    * Quadro FX-series notebook GPUs (only those that support DirectX 10 or higher).

New in Version 197.16:

    * Adds notebook support for 3D Vision on external displays. GPU and display requirements for notebook PCs can be found here . 3D Vision drivers for notebooks can be found here .
    * Adds or improves SLI support for top new gaming titles including Assassin Creed II , Avatar, Battlefield: Bad Company 2, Command and Conquer 4: Tiberium Twilight, Dirt 2, Mass Effect 2, Metro 2033, Napoleon: Total War, Supreme Commander 2, World of Warcraft and more.
    * Upgrades PhysX System Software to version 9.10.0129 for new PhysX titles like Dark Void.
    * Upgrades HD Audio driver to version (for supported GPUs).
    * Increases performance in several PC games from v195.62 WHQL. The following are examples of measured improvements. Results will vary depending on your GPU and system configuration:

          o Up to 13% performance increase in Crysis: Warhead with a single GPU
          o Up to 30% performance increase in Crysis: Warhead with SLI technology
          o Up to 13% performance increase in H.A.W.X with single GPU
          o Up to 15% performance increase in H.A.W.X with SLI technology
          o Up to 30% performance increase in Left 4 Dead with single GPU
          o Up to 28% performance increase in Left 4 Dead with SLI technology

    * Includes numerous bug fixes. Refer to the release notes on the documentation tab for information about the key bug fixes in this release.

Existing support:

    * Supports GPU-acceleration for smoother online HD videos with the new Adobe Flash 10.1 beta. Learn more here .
    * Supports for DirectCompute with Windows 7.
    * Supports OpenGL 3.2.
    * Supports OpenCL 1.0 (Open Computing Language).
    * Supports CUDA Toolkit 3.0 features and performance enhancements. See CUDA Zone for more details.
    * Supports NVIDIA PhysX hardware acceleration on GPUs with a minimum of 256MB dedicated graphics memory and 32 processing cores.
    * Supports single GPU and NVIDIA SLI technology on DirectX 9, DirectX 10, and OpenGL.
    * Supports NVIDIA SLI Multi-monitor support, giving you the ability to use two monitors with your GeForce graphics cards in SLI mode. Learn more here .

 Posted - 3/30/2010 12:55:13 AM  - Show Profile  Edit Message

Site Administrator
2020 Contributions

Awesome .

Best of all about these new drivers:

Supported Products:
GeForce 300M series:
GTS 360M...

They skipped Beta releases and went straight to WHQL - But now we have an official nVidia mainline 360M release - Finally

Am dead tired at the moment so heading off for bed, but looking forward to your findings and I'll test it at my first opportunity


Last Edited By - PJPeter on 3/30/2010 12:55:29 AM
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